North Sardinia

best gateway for Gallura, Palau and the eastern coast

best gateway for the north west coast, Stintino and Castelsardo

A lively small town on the northern tip, laid out on a grid around a central piazza, with Corsica visible across the strait. Beaches and granite headlands lie within minutes.

Palau is the jumping-off point for La Maddalena, while nearby Porto Pollo is a renowned windsurfing and kitesurfing spot. Villas here face the archipelago.

A walled seafront city with Catalan roots, stone ramparts and a lively old town of restaurants and bars. Villas in the surrounding countryside combine calm with easy access to the city.

A former tuna fishing village of pastel houses at the north west tip, next to La Pelosa beach and the Asinara National Park.

A medieval citadel perched on a promontory above the Gulf of Asinara, famous for its basket weaving tradition. Peaceful in the evening once day visitors leave.

The countryside around Luogosanto, Aggius and Tempio Pausania offers stone farmhouses, cork oaks and vineyards. Cooler nights and real seclusion.

Positions are approximate: the exact address is shared once your stay is confirmed.

A shallow lagoon of white sand and pale turquoise water watched over by a sixteenth century Aragonese tower. Access is limited each day in summer to protect the dunes.

A former prison island, now car free and home to wild white donkeys, untouched coves and walking trails. Boats leave from Stintino and Porto Torres.

Sheer limestone cliffs drop into the sea at Capo Caccia, where the 654 steps of the Escala del Cabirol lead down to a cave of lakes and stalactites. In calm weather, boats from Alghero offer an easier approach.

Walk the sea walls at sunset, then explore lanes where street names are written in both Italian and Catalan. The cathedral and its bell tower dominate the skyline.

A granite headland near Santa Teresa joined to the mainland by a narrow sandbar, with the sculpted Valle della Luna and coves on either side.

A protected archipelago of granite islands and exceptionally clear water, best explored by private boat from Palau or Santa Teresa. Park rules govern where boats may anchor.

The castle of the Doria family crowns the old town and houses a museum of woven baskets. Views extend across the gulf to Asinara.

A surreal landscape of enormous granite boulders in the hills of upper Gallura. It is beautiful at dusk and wonderful for walks.

Take the morning ferry from Santa Teresa to walk the clifftop citadel of Bonifacio, then return for dinner in Sardinia.

Explore the island by electric bike, four wheel drive or guided tour, stopping at Cala d'Oliva and quiet beaches along the way.

Cruise along the cliffs of the Riviera del Corallo from Alghero harbour and enter the cave from the sea when conditions allow.

The channel between Sardinia and Isola dei Gabbiani offers reliable wind and schools for every level.

Visit artisan workshops on the Riviera del Corallo, where red coral has been worked for centuries.

Taste Torbato and Cagnulari near Alghero, then Vermentino di Gallura among the granite vineyards of the north east.

Shallow, luminous water and fine sand; booking is required from mid May to mid October.

A town beach of white sand below the old tower, with Corsica on the horizon.

A broad beach west of Santa Teresa, backed by dunes and juniper and rarely crowded.

A long, sheltered beach in a bay near Alghero, ideal for families.

A string of small coves near Alghero with clear water and pine shade.

A narrow inlet among granite boulders, perfect for snorkelling.

What to eat

What to drink

A white limestone citadel perched above a fjord-like harbour, easily seen in a day.

Sardinia's second city, with a baroque cathedral and a fine archaeological museum.

A car free national park island with wild donkeys and empty beaches.

The archipelago's only town, with a lively harbour and Garibaldi's house on neighbouring Caprera.

A granite town among cork forests, with an old centre and natural springs.

April and May bring wildflowers, green hills and comfortable temperatures for walking Asinara and Capo Testa. The sea warms through May and towns stay calm.

June to August is hot and bright, with the full range of boat trips and beach services. La Pelosa's daily cap and August crowds make early planning essential.

September keeps the sea warm while crowds ease, and October is golden and quiet, though boat services begin to thin. It is an excellent time for wine and walking.

Alghero and Sassari stay lively all year, while coastal resorts largely close. Expect mild days, occasional strong mistral winds and a strongly local atmosphere.